Natural complex substances, biocatalysis and perfumery

Sylvain Antoniotti
Research Director at CNRS
Institut de Chimie de Nice
Institut d’Innovation et de Partenariats Arômes Parfums Cosmétiques
Université Côte d’Azur

Abstract:

Natural complex substances such as essential oils or solvent extracts obtained from plants have been used in perfumery since Antiquity. Their chemical composition, determined more or less easily by the combination of chromatographic techniques, mass spectrometry, isolation and NMR characterisation, can be very diverse with molecules presenting sometimes important biological activities. If the main and most desirable is the olfactory activity, sometimes deleterious effects ranging from allergy to contact dermatitis and to carcinogenicity could be suspected
or demonstrated.
In this lecture, we will present some results of our research on the chemical modification of natural complex substances used in perfumery. To optimise the properties, e.g. by enhancing olfactory properties or diminishing toxicity or adverse properties, we have used biocatalysis, relying on the various forms of selectivity of enzymes to achieve our goal.

Reviews
K. Plevova, S. Antoniotti, A. Frix, S. Antoniotti. A holistic vision for a sustainable fragrance industry. RSC Sustainability, 2025, in press.
M. Lecourt, S. Antoniotti. Chemistry, sustainability and naturality of perfumery biotech ingredients. ChemSusChem 2021, 13, 21, 5600-5610.
S. Antoniotti. Tuning of essential oils properties by enzymatic treatment: Towards sustainable processes for the generation of new fragrant ingredients. Molecules 2014, 19, 7, 9203-9214.

Book chapter
M. Lecourt, S. Antoniotti. Biocatalysis & biotransformation for optimised natural flavour and fragrance ingredients. In Chemistry and sensoriality of perfumery ingredients: academic and industrial perspectives, Imperial College Press (Londres), in press.

Articles by plants
Oakmoss: Molecules 2018, 23(10), 2619. Cosmetics 2018, 5(4), 69.
Vetiver: ChemPlusChem 2017, 82, 3, 407-415.
Palmarosa: Chem. Biodiv. 2013, 10, 12, 2291–2301.
Rose: Biocatal. Biotransfor. 2008, 26, 3, 228-234. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2012, 60, 4, 1052-1058. Molecules 2021, 26, 19, 6053. Botany Lett. 2023, 70, 1, 15-27.

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